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Jerome Boutaud about to send Tree Hugger at Lynn Woods Reservation, MA.
Jerome Boutaud about to send Tree Hugger at Lynn Woods Reservation, MA.

Bouldering at Lynn Woods, Massachusetts with Jerome Boutaud

GUEST POST BY JEROME BOUTAUD

Forewarning: 

This should go without saying but please remember that climbing at Lynn Woods is a privilege and not a right. Climbers should always remember to be cautious when visitin

Pack out what you bring in, be courteous to the other users of the park. Don’t destroy the vegetation, stay on established trails.

Info:

Lynn Woods Reservation is the second largest municipal park in the greater Boston area. This 2,200 acre forest reserve consists of ponds, wetlands, streams, deciduous/evergreen forest and rocky ledge. The ponds provide the drinking water for the residents of Lynn and surrounding communities. Wildlife abounds in the forest. Well over 100 species of birds inhabit or seasonally frequent the woods. A large rodent population supports such predators as hawks, owls and red tail fox. More than an aquifer, more than a wildlife preserve, more than a wilderness experience, Lynn Woods is a rare and unique adventure.

From friends of Lynn Woods (http://www.flw.org/)

Lynn Woods is likely one of the best kept climbing secrets in Massachusetts. I have always been surprised by the fact that despite it’s proximity to Boston and the amount of climbing, it never became a destination for people. Likely, the sharpness of the rock and the lack of beta meant that people did not make their way back, and that’s a shame. There are numerous boulders with a wide range of difficulties.

The boulders tend to be a bit of a walk from each other and though a lot of the climbs are documented on mountain project, a sense of adventure will help you find the boulders.

The author, Jerome Boutaud, bouldering at Lynn Woods, Massachusetts.
The author, Jerome Boutaud, bouldering at Lynn Woods, Massachusetts.

Climbing Style:

The rock here is granite. Much like a majority of the rocks found in eastern Massachusetts, the granite tends to create crystally features, which leads to crimpy climbing that requires technical footwork. A majority of the established lines are v0 to v9.

Getting There:

For the bouldering areas mentioned here, park at the Great Woods Road playground. Click HERE from directions.

The Bouldering Beta:

I have 2 tours that I recommend for first timers at Lynn Woods. The Tower Tour and the Weetamoo Tour. There are a few other ways you could make your way around the park to minimize walking and maximize the climbing. But these tours limit the potential for getting lost.

The Summit Boulders at Lynn Woods.
The Summit Boulders at Lynn Woods.

The Weetamoo Tour:

This is the typical place to take climbers new to Lynn Woods. It takes a bit of a walk to get to the boulders, but once you are there you are in an area with lots of boulders close by. The warmup should be done on the classic climbs at the Summit Boulders. More information is available at Mountain Project. From there, it is a short walk to the Patina Boulder, the Graffiti Boulder, the Great Frog Boulder, the Weetamoo Boulder and the Elephant Boulder and more, giving you access to 50-60 boulder problems ranging from v0 to v9.

The Stone Tower Tour:

This is a short approach tour, which while not getting access to as many boulder problem brings you to a number of the classic climbs in the area.  General information is available at Mountain Project. I typically would start at Queen’s row then work my up the hill stopping at Slant right boulder, Target and then making my way to the Stone tower boulder making for a packed climbing day.

My favorite climbs:

  • Bacon and Eggs (v0) — Summit Boulders
  • Stone Beachball (v2) — Summit Boulders
  • Dog Leg Crack (v5 stand, v7 sit) — Weetamoo Boulder
  • Great Frog Arete (v6) — Great Frog Boulder
  • The Swell (v7) — Weetamoo Boulder
  • Green Haze (v7) — Tower Boulder

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