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Top Shelf Climbing Shoes: Scarpa Techno X

Top Shelf Climbing Shoes: Scarpa Techno X

Want to have a good day at the crag? You’ve got to have the right shoes. It sucks when your foot keeps popping because of shitty rubber or when you’re crack climbing in a flimsy pair of shoes and your toes get all chewed up. On the flip side, when you’ve got the right shoes and the conditions are good you can lose yourself in the movement, weaving up the wall in total rock star bliss.

In the category of comfortable-performance climbing shoes Scarpa’s Techno X ($155) float to the top. “I loved the extra rubber protection on top of the toes and the lining on the tongue kept me comfortable all day long,” said one reviewer about his day testing the shoes on the tall, granite walls in Dream Canyon, Colorado. Scarpa also incorporated a bi-tension rand system that pushes the power of the shoe into the toes without cramming your foot forward. Smart. To top it off, they went with Vibram’s popular XS Edge 4mm rubber, a firm material that edges beautifully and outlasts most other rubbers. What’s not to love about this shoe?

Well, the Techno X has a few minor drawbacks. First being the cost. At $155 it’s on the high end of the market. However, when considering the premium suede upper, the quality rubber, and other fine touches it warrants the cost. So let’s move on. The Techno X isn’t very sensitive as a result of the stiff 4mm rubber and the heel cup is built for comfort, not for performance. If you’re OK with that you’ll love this shoe. We sure did.

Scarpa Techno X Gear Review Action in Solitude

PROS

  • Lining on the tongue make it super comfy
  • Extra protection for on top of the toes
  • Firm rubber sole make it ideal for edging and crack climbing
  • Looks great

CONS

  • Little extra room in the heel
  • Expensive

Testing locations: Dream Canyon, Colorado; Shelf Road, Colorado; Movement Climbing + Fitness Denver

About Kevin Riley

Kevin Riley has been a rock climbing and general outdoor enthusiast for over sixteen years, served as the associate publisher for Climbing and Urban Climber magazines, and co-founded the Denver-based non-profit, First Ascenders. He graduated from UMASS (Amherst).

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